The figure of the Archangel Gabriel crowns the central column of Budapest's Heroes' Square (Hosök tér)...
Built in 1896, this symbol of power marks a high point in the history of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. I stood in its awesome shadow studying a copy of Let's Go Eastern Europe.
I'd come to Budapest after visiting Krakow, Prague, and Vienna. I'd heard it was a great city for walking, and once there, I found out that this was true.
I had just begun a self-guided walking tour (map) and had so far come a block from the Hotel Liget where I'd arrived the previous evening by taxi. Secure in a vehicle, I had thrilled at the sight of the Danube shimmering a midnight blue and cosmopolitan agleam in lights. In the light of day, alone in a swirl of foreign speak and traffic din, I felt confused and fearful of getting lost. Quite unheroically, I abandoned Heroes' Square and the idea of solo sightseeing, returned to my hotel and booked a city bus tour.
That was a wise move; not only did I gain a feel for the city layout, I also learned something of its long history going back to the Celtic tribes that settled on Gellért Hill, followed by the Romans in the 1st century, the Magyars in the 9th and 10th centuries, and the Turks in the 16th century.
Classical Ottoman architecture can still be seen today in the Rudas, Rác and Király Baths. In fact, baths abound in Budapest and are renowned for their healing waters and therapeutic treatments. One could spend a week sampling the city's wide variety of medicinal spas. (For more on the city's baths, see The Baths of Budapest by Christopher Kenneally).
The bus tour over, I focused on my guidebook with revived confidence. Budapest consists of two halves – Buda to the west and Pest to the east of the Danube River – linked together by nine elegant bridges. I realized that almost everything worth seeing on the Pest side lies within walking distance of the Danube. Across the river, compact, hilly Buda's meandering medieval streets are also best explored on foot.
More about Budapest to come... Meanwhile, see a nice slideshow of the city.
Note: I found Budapest to be a fascinating city to visit, and one that many people overlook when making their vacation plans. So did Forbes.com -- check out this article which names Budapest as one of the worlds "Under the Radar" vacation spots.
