Journeys Near and Far

Mumbai's Gateway of India

Just across the street from the Taj Mahal Intercontinental Hotel complex lies the Gateway of India, an arch that reminded me very much of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

The Gateway, built in 1924 to commemorate the 1911 visit of King George V and Queen Mary, was the disembarkation point for passengers arriving on the P&O steamers, but, it's actually known best today as the place where the British chose to stage their final departure from India.

The Taj Mahal Intercontinental Hotel has an interesting story.   It  is said that industrialist J.N. Tata built the Taj as an act of revenge after being refused entrance to what was then the town's best hotel, Watson's, which was for "white's only."   The ban ruined Watson's, now long gone, but the lovely Taj Mahal Intercontinental still presides over the seafront, entertaining visiting diplomats, sheiks and Mumbai's wealthy, and, well, anyone with a lot more money than me.

Next to the Gateway is a wide stone staircase that descends to a jetty where vividly colored launches bob in the water, the place, by the way, where we caught the ferry that took us across the harbor to Elephanta Island.

A Market in Mumbai

Back to India!  In Mumbai, on my second day in India, we visited the Arthur Crawford Municipal Market.  Built in 1868, the huge building buzzed with activity -- vendors selling the most luscious looking fruits and vegetables I've ever seen.  Unfortunately, I didn't buy any as I was worried about my sensitive stomach, but I enjoyed the clamor of hundreds of people hawking their wares, the vibrant colors, and the pungent scent of Indian spices that permeated the air. 

I couldn't bring myself to go to the meat market, but it was closed that day, anyway.  There was plenty to see, however, and many smiling faces, people who were more than willing to be the subject of my photos.  Some of the vendors slept peacefully despite the din, either above their stalls, or in baskets or wherever they could find a cozy nook to crawl into. 

Enjoying the almost primitive experience of having gone back to basics, of shopping in a market where people sit cross-legged on the floor or in stalls selling their wares, a place where people sleep on floors and carry produce in baskets on their heads, I boldly asked three teenaged boys if I could take their picture, and they enthusiastically agreed.  Just as I was about to click the camera, one of them whipped out a cell phone and caught me on film, too, my mouth open wide in surprise.  Technology -- it's everywhere!

Back outside, the streets bustled with motorbikes, cars, bicycles, and people... each driver beeping louder than the next.  Another reminder that I was in exotic India, and I couldn't wait to see what would happen next.

For more photos from the Arthur Crawford Municipal Market, look here!

The World's Largest Limb Fitting Society, Jaipur, India

I might be getting ahead of myself here, as I promised to write more about Bombay next, but I wanted to mention a really interesting visit we made to a charitable trust in Jaipur -- the world's largest limb fitting Society,  Bhagwan Mahaveer Viklang Sahayata Samiti.   We watched, fascinated, as they demonstrated how the limbs are made, using highly advanced alignment methods and socket systems to develop the most functional artificial limbs. 

Their main objective, the Society says, is physical,  economic and social rehabilitation of the physically handicapped, enabling them to regain their self-respect and human dignity and become useful members of the community.  The Society gives free assistance to those in need, ensuring them it is help and not charity so their self-respect is not belittled. 

Elephanta Island, Mumbai, India

India -- exotic, colorful and fascinating!  I've just returned from a trip there -- my first ever to Asia, outside of Turkey, and a real life-enhancing experience.   The sounds, sights, colors and scents of the country overwhelmed my senses; the people were among the friendliest I've ever met, and I learned a lot about the world and myself.

I flew from JFK to London to Delhi to Mumbai (Bombay) -- about 20 hours and the longest flight I've experienced so far.   Arriving in the early hours of the morning, the first thing that hit me was the oppressive heat (it was August).  But the tropical atmosphere, palm trees and balmy breeze that blew in across the Arabian Sea just outside of our hotel, the Hilton Towers Mumbai, bestowed a sense of calm and relaxation.

Mumbai, the capital of the Indian state of Maharashtra, is the most populous Indian city, and the largest port in western India.  That's why it was great to embark on a trip to Elephanta Island the next morning -- to get away from the crowded and noisy streets of Mumbai.

Elephanta Island's rock-cut temples are Mumbai's major tourist attraction.  Traveling by a gaily painted ferry on the Arabian Sea, we watched Bombay fade into the distance as Elephanta Island grew closer.   Also known as 'Gharapuri', this verdant island is a wonder, with its painstakingly hewn rock-cut cave temple dedicated to Shiva, shown here as creator, protector and destroyer.  The temples, thought to be carved between 450 and 750 AD, survived Portuguese vandalism (one cave was reputedly used by a Portuguese battalion as a shooting gallery) and are equal in size and beauty as the caves at Ajanta and Ellora.

Arriving on Elephanta Island, we walked past skeletons of deserted boats that dotted the beach, then climbed a long flight of steps that stretched up the hill, some of my group choosing to "ride" up, Maharajah style, upon a chair carried by handsome young Indian porters.  At the top of the stairs, monkeys scampered across the green grass outside the cave entrance.

Inside, our guide taught us about Shiva, and the history of the Elephanta caves and the island.  Large carved panels depicting Shiva were sculpted throughout the cave.

On our way back to Mumbai, we had a beautiful view of the city skyline while occasional heavy rain showers burst through the sunshine, drenching our boat.  This remnant of the monsoon reminded me of my friends who had said "What?  You're going to India during the heat of August and the monsoon?"  But it didn't bother me.  It was a good time to go as there weren't as many tourists.

Next time I'll write more about Mumbai.  Meanwhile don't miss the photo album of Elephanta Island, which you can see here!